Juice, coffee, and donuts will be available during the race.

We will use a race system where each car is raced many times against different opponents and scores points based upon the time it takes to reach the finish line. Only the race officials will handle the cars.

Everyone will receive a trophy for participating, with the top placing cars receiving special trophies.
Good Luck!

The Space Derby for Tiger Cubs is non-competitive.

Have fun watching your rockets fly down the wire!
Have fun watching the Pinewood Derby!

Space Derby participants will receive a participation award.

Rules for Pinewood Derby

1. Car must have been made this year from the official BSA kit. You can't reuse an old car. You can't use any of the pre-cut derby cars you can find in the hobby shops. (These are for other organizations that do this activity.)
2. Overall length shall not exceed 7 inches.
   
3. Overall width shall not exceed 2 ¾ inches.
   
4. Weight shall not exceed 5 ounces (28 grams). No loose materials of any kind are permitted in the car. The car may be hollowed out and built up to a maximum weight by the addition of wood or metal only, provided it is securely built into the body.
   
5. The car shall not ride on any type of springs.
   
6. Only wheels and nails that come with the kit are allowed, and you must use the original axle grooves.
   
7. No "waffering" of the wheels or narrowing the wheel surface.
   
8. No oil, grease, or silicone spray shall be used on axles or wheels. Only dry, powdered graphite is permissible as a lubricant.
   
9. Washers and bushings are prohibited on the wheels.
   
10. Details such as steering wheel, driver, decals, painting, interior design are permissible as long as these details do not exceed the maximum length and width specification.
    
11. The car must be free wheeling with no starting devices.
    
12. Each car must pass inspection by the official Inspection Committee before it may compete.
    
13. If repairs need to be made on any car during the derby, only the Cub Scout who owns the car may repair it. They will be given a reasonable length of time.
    
14. If a car leaves the track, runs out of its lane, interferes with another car, or loses an axle, etc., the heat will be run over. If the same car gets into trouble on the second run, the contestant loses that heat.
    
15. During the race, cars will be handled only by the Race Officials, who will place them at the starting gate and return them to the holding table after each race.
    
16. All spectators must stay in their seats and behind the barriers.
    
17. Show good sportsmanship. Everyone will not win a first place trophy, but take satisfaction in knowing that you've done your best and had fun doing it!
    

Tips for Building Your Car

Here are some basic instructions that will give you a good performing car. For more advanced techniques, see the link in the next section below.

First, choose your favorite design. Outline your design on a paper template. Remember to maintain the 1 3/4 inch width where the metal axle is to be inserted. Feel free to design anything you want, as long as your car meets the rule specifications. According to many experts, wind resistance does not seem to interfere with a car's performance. Thus, a car with a flat nose wins as often as a car with a thin nose.

It is up to the Cub Scout and his partner to decide how detailed the car is built. Please keep in mind at all times the safety of the Cub Scout. Generally, the adult makes the major cuts with the power tools, and then lets the Cub Scout file and complete the sanding and painting.

Before cutting out the car, look at the axle grooves that came with your kit. Check the grooves to ensure that each is at a perfect 90-degree angle to the car body. A car with untrue axles tends to steer to one side or the other, causing it to rub up against the side of the lane strip, slowing it down. When placing the axles on the car, not only should the axle be at 90 degrees to the car body, but they should be placed the same depth into the car.

Pre-drill your axle grooves. Get a drill bit, Number 43, just under the size of the axle, and drill out the grooves. (A #43 bit is best, but if you don't have one, you can use a larger 3/32" bit instead.) This will keep the wood from splintering when the axles are driven in, and it will give a better bite on the axle. It is best to pre-align and drill your axle grooves before you shape the body. This gives you a flat and true surface to work from on all sides.

Once the design is transferred to the block of wood and the axle grooves are drilled, you can continue shaping. You may use power tools, files, planes, sanders, etc. Do not forget to have a place for weight if you need it. Weight may be placed anywhere, as long as it is not taped on and does not exceed the qualifications. You can even bolt it on, if you like. You can buy adjustable weights for pinewood derby cars at hobby shops and scout shops. Keep details such as driver, steering wheel, roll bar, etc., for last.

Only the official wheels that come in the kit are acceptable. Wheels can be sanded to remove surface imperfections, but the treads must be left flat. Make sure that all wheels roll freely and smoothly around the axle. Get a drill bit that fits just inside the wheel where the axle fits. This cleans out the roughness and burrs that could cause the wheels not to spin freely on the axles.

The axles themselves may need special attention. Check each axle to see if there is a burr on the underside of the head. To let the wheels run as freely as possible, place an axle in an electric drill or hand-drill chuck, then smooth the burrs with a fine emery cloth or file. To fine-tune your axles, polish them with jeweler's rouge or fine emery paper. These items can be purchased at a local hardware store. Do NOT install the wheels yet.

Sanding sealer and other types of primers can be found at your local automotive parts or hardware stores. After molding and sanding your car to your satisfaction, prime it, sand it with a fine sandpaper, and add additional coats of paint. Do not glue details on yet.

Now, put the axles and wheels on the car, but don't glue the axles on yet. Weigh your car, being sure to place the car and accessories (driver, steering wheel, roll bar, etc.) on the scale.The car may NOT weigh more than 5 ounces. Get you car as close to 5 ounces as possible. Weight must not be taped on. The car may be hollowed out and weight inserted to build it up to the maximum weight. Make sure it is securely attached or built into the body of the car. If your car is not up to or close to the official weight on the day of the race, the race committee will allow washers or coins to be glued onto it. Weight is one of the biggest factors in building a winning car.

Now that the weight is securely mounted, slip the wheels back on. Place the car on a long, flat surface, such as a floor, and give it a gentle push. The car should travel in a straight line for a reasonable distance (five to ten feet).

Lubricate and mount the wheels permanently. Use only dry, fine powdered graphite. Dust a little powder lube in the hole of the wheel where the axle is inserted, and some on the axle where the wheel rides. It also does not hurt to place some at the axle head. Slide the axles and wheels onto the car and glue into place. Use an epoxy or non resin glue, and make sure you don't get any on the surface of the axle where the wheel rides. Let this dry thoroughly.

Now is the time to put on all accessories, decals, and other details. Make sure they are securely mounted on the car.

That completes your Pinewood Derby racer. Good Luck!

More Information

You can find more ideas and techniques on the web for building Pinewood Derby cars. Here is one recommended site. Just be sure you don't violate any of the rules.

The Ultimate Pinewood Derby Site